Anagni, the hidden gem with an ancient history

According to legends, Anagni is one of the famous Saturnias founded by the god Saturn during the golden age and has long been the sacred place of Ernici, the ancient Italic people who dwelled these lands. Its mythical origin would also be confirmed by the cyclopic walls, typical of other nearby locations as well, a megalithic architecture in the Latium vetus region.

Passed under the control of Rome and with the growing hegemony of the City and its empire, this town maintained its religious relevance becoming a perfect environment for the construction of temples and places of worship, formerly pagan (including a mithraeum for the cult of Mithras) and later christian. The passage of the Romans in the territory is still witnessed by the ruins of the villas, in particular Villa Magna near the Sacco valley.

In short, the divine feature of Anagni is undeniable since its origins. But, if for many centuries in the post-Roman era the city lived in substantial anonymity, the age of its maximum majesty would have come after the year 1000 in the heart of the Middle Age becoming the actual papal seat as well as birthplace of the popes of that time - especially Alexander IV, Gregory IX and Boniface VIII. Henceforward it gained the famous name of 'city of the Popes'.

Being part of the Papal State, it was firstly a free municipality under the influence of the Conti di Segni family and during the thirteenth century the lordship of the city passed to the Caetani family, reaching the peak of its glory. Anagni became one of the greatest urban centers of the Middle Age, counting about 50,000 inhabitants (more than double of the current population) and gathering a great political, religious, economic, cultural and artistic power within its walls.

The city was the main scene of the clash for the hegemony of the temporal power of the Church above the European sovereigns, as well as the local rivalry between the Caetani and the Colonna. The latter supported Philip the Fair in the increasingly heated feud between France and the Papacy and were main players in the famous outrage of Anagni against Boniface VIII on September 7th 1303 before the issue of the excommunication against the French king: an event that made history, quickly leading to the death of the Pope, the transfer of the papal seat to Avignon and the decay of the city.

Today Anagni enjoys its glorious past and its new guise: it is one of the most evocative tourist destinations in Lazio with a bundle of experiences to discover, to live and to taste.

In places where history was made, it’s always possible to find evidence of its passage. One of these is Anagni, where the splendid medieval buildings still adorn the city’s landscape.

Palazzo della Ragione, built in the mid-twelfth century with the supervision of Jacopo d'Iseo, it has always been the heart of Anagni's political and administrative activity. On the external side of the northern wall, the coats of arms of the city and of the Caetani and Orsini families can still be distinguished. The monumental Sala della Ragione was also built inside the palace, an environment that, today as then, hosts cultural events and conferences.

The tour of Anagni’s architecture consists of two more main stages. The first is Palazzo di Bonifacio VIII, considered as the exact place where the famous outrage was done, presumably built at the beginning of the thirteenth century and now seat of a museum rich in collections, pieces of art and artifacts from the protohistoric, Roman and medieval eras; you can also visit the three main rooms - delle Oche, del Giubileo and delle Scacchiere - adorned with frescoes and decorations. The second is Casa Barnekow, a palace built in the 13th century which takes its name from the Swedish nobleman who bought it in the mid-19th century and, according to tradition, hosted Dante Alighieri during his stay there. 

Visita the Palace of Boniface VIII ❯

At the end of our trip to Anagni, it's time to grab a bite on some food. Yes, if you are wondering, this city knows how to delight the taste of its tourists!

One of the most famous food is certainly Panpepato. It is a Christmas cake typically made with flour, nuts (especially walnuts, hazelnuts, almonds and pine nuts) and cooked grape must or honey. The origin of this dessert dates back to the years of the city's heyday and this factor raises doubts about the actual meaning of its name: some believe that it actually refers to its spicy flavor, a theory confirmed in the following centuries by the addition of ingredients - like cocoa, cinnamon and pepper - to this preparation; some others believe that it is just a reference to the word 'papacy' (papato in Italian), which certainly sounds familiar in these parts.

And if we want to sip excellent wine while tasting Anagni's specialties, then there is no doubt: the Cesanese del Piglio DOCG. It is produced throughout the Frosinone area between the Ernici mountains and the Sacco valley and its alcohol rate varies between 12% and 14% depending on the production - base, superiore and riserva. This quality of red wine is considered a national excellence and has received important awards at the National Competition of DOC and DOCG Wines in Asti and the Salon International des Vins et Spiritueux in Montréal.

Are you thinking of traveling to Lazio? Do not miss the opportunity to be amazed by the charm and great history enclosed within the walls of the city of the Popes!

What is Anagni famous for? Of course, for the famous episode of the slap inflicted on Pope Boniface VIII, but the illustrious victim of this outrage, who was also born in Anagni, is not, of course, the only pope to have lived here. Anagni is also linked to another famous episode in the history of the Church.

The first pope from Anagni was Innocent III, followed by Alexander IV and Gregory IX. Then, in 1292, Pope Celestine V was elected, the same one Dante probably alluded to in the Divine Comedy, defining him as "he who made through cowardice the great refusal ".

In fact, Celestine V, only four months after his nomination, renounced the pontificate, remaining for many centuries the only pope in history to have made such a choice. In fact, the second similar case, that of the resignation of Pope Benedict XVI, only occurred in 2013.

History, architecture and good food are all great reasons to visit Anagni, but there is more. Its welcoming and quiet atmosphere further enriches the travel experience. In the evening, for example, a walk through the small illuminated streets, away from traffic and crowds, is ideal for regenerating the mind and body, as much as sitting down to have a coffee in the square on a sunny morning.

Here the pace is slower and every moment can be enjoyed to the full, without stress and without looking at the clock.

Anagni is also easy to reach since it is only a little more than seventy kilometers from Rome. This makes it the perfect destination for a day trip from the capital, to add to the infinite beauties that Rome has to offer.

Discover the beauty of Rome with the Rome Pass❯