Hidden Gems - The Charming Villages of Le Marche: Santa Vittoria in Matenano

Santa Vittoria in Matenano is a charming little village that sits on top of a hill, the Matenano, to be precise. The Matenano is actually a gentle hill, having slopes, yes, but not so sharp as to discourage long walks in the green. And green I would say is indeed the prevalent color around here, in addition to the typical red and brown of the tree tops in autumn. Downy oaks and holms are just a couple of the centuries-old trees around here filling the air with their wild scent.

I take a deep breath and savor this intense aroma before starting the path. As I look around and admire the greenery around me, I begin to climb the slope and slowly arrive in the historic center of this village. Santa Vittoria is very very small, the center is quite intimate and has just 1,200 inhabitants. However, all the noises that can be heard totally belong to nature. The wind is pleasant and caresses the foliage, birds sing, and I really feel in harmony with the environment around me. That is why I have decided that I will begin my tour in the presence of the giants, the “rulers” of these areas, the Sibillini Mountains.

I am literally enraptured by the profiles of these evocative named mountains. Just think that they were called “monti azzurri”, “light-blue mountains” by Giacomo Leopardi, perhaps the most famous personality in the Marche region, and indeed they look great with a crystal-clear sky like this. Majestic and imposing and yes, azure-colored. All that I can do is just to enjoy this marvelous spectacle in a corner - I would say a privileged one - named the Sibillini Balcony, a beautiful viewpoint where I can picture romantic and poetic sunsets - e il naufragar m è dolce in questo mare, to mention the poet.

I decide to start my walk from here and so, struggling, I break away from this postcard-like panorama but am firmly committed to return here to admire it by the light of sunset. So I enter the actual gateway to the village, the Odorisio Tower, and through its Gothic portal.

You should know that the tower is one, if not the main one, of the testimonies left by the Farfensi monks, who were somewhat the founders of Santa Vittoria. They were a group of friars who in the nineteenth century A.D. fled the central Abbey of Fara Sabina to escape the Saracens and founded a kind of “ subsidiary” here. They were also involved in the construction of many of the churches and buildings that are still here but also in the spreading of agricultural and craft techniques still in use today. And finally they brought here the relics of St. Victoria, to whom a majestic shrine and, of course, the name of the town are dedicated. So consider how much history is concentrated in such a small town: isn't it amazing?

But let's not get off topic: the tower, as I was talking about, is dedicated to Abbot Odorisio, a prominent personality among the Farfensi who in the late 1200s was the town's Podestà (a kind of mayor) and thus contributed to its development at the administrative level. What he left us as a legacy is a splendid and imposing structure, 28 meters high, which was certainly erected for observation and defense purposes but which today dominates the historic center with its clock and bell tower. Moreover, as the townspeople like to report, in early August it really brings magic to the village, because at a certain time the sun, as it sets, perfectly centers its portal and gives spectacular lighting effects. They even dedicate a festival to it, the Festival of the Sun!

In passing through this magical portal, I almost feel as if I am passing through a Stargate and going back in time to the Middle Ages. The energy you can feel is really strong! It may be the setting sun, or the spirit of Odorisio accompanying me, who knows?

In the heart of the old town I encounter the typical architectural style of the Middle Ages everywhere, the cobbled streets and redstone buildings, and I cannot fail to remark how it preserves the unique charm of past centuries. I just need a pause to realize that I am indeed in the present before carrying on.

Consider that in this tiny village there are so many churches following one another, such as Madonna della Pace and San Salvatore. As well as so many aristocratic palaces representing the families who lived there (such as the Monti, the Melis, the Lamponi, the Macilenti) and who also commissioned the beautiful Teatro del Leone in the 19th century. So classy!

But now I want to focus on another symbol of Santa Vittoria, the town hall building. You should know that this building is a perfect union between temporal life, because it is actually the seat of the local government, and religious life, because it is partly derived from the old monastery of Sant'Agostino, which was given to the municipality. The two souls of the town, we might say, are combined in this stately and solemn structure, where many ancient parchments documenting Santa Vittoria's glorious past are preserved. Nowadays the building is actually an interesting mix of styles but the institutional character is well perceived.

Something that impressed me about Santa Vittoria is definitely the peacefulness in the eyes of the people who live there. I had a chance to chat with locals and I saw their kindness, their smiles, their hospitality-they are all so relaxed that they make me envious. In fact there is a saying around here, “if you want to live calm and healthy come back to Matenano”. And how could it be otherwise! The greenery, the nature, the silence, the beauty of the old town: here we are in a world apart, in a small oasis far from the hustle and bustle of the cities, where you can breathe clean air. Here you can really feel good!

But the walk has made me hungry, so I enter the first osteria that the locals recommend. Immediately I take a seat and ask to taste their specialties, and the innkeeper and his staff accommodate me by dispensing anecdotes, historical notes and pairing recommendations. Obviously, we are in the Marche region: there can be no shortage of cured meats, mainly ciauscolo, and cheeses, such as caciotta, the protagonists of an abundant cutting board. I match them, of course, with freshly baked bread on which I pour delicious intensely flavored oil. I continue with fresh homemade pasta with truffles, which almost stuns me with its woodland scent, and accompany it all with glasses of Falerio wine, a full-bodied white that I think I will not forget so easily.

This hearty lunch has really satisfied me but now I really need a digestive walk and so I say goodbye to the inn staff and the very kind customers and get back on my way. I walk through San Francesco Park, where I find the former convent of the same name and let myself be seduced by this brick building, imagining how much history it held inside. As I continue walking with my nose in the air, I suddenly realize, without even being aware of it, that I have arrived at another fundamental point of interest: the Sanctuary of our Santa Vittoria, the Collegiata as it is nicknamed here. I want to get closer and so I climb the stairs that lead me to the entrance but unfortunately I cannot - because of the heartquake the church is not

Immediately I am struck by the silence, the peaceful and contemplative atmosphere of this place where I am alone. I would really like to visit the inner space to see the real attraction of the Collegiata, the crypt of St. Victoria that preserves her mortal remains. It is a splendid work of stone sculpture, on whose “lid” is depicted the martyrdom of the saint, who was killed because she did not want to marry the nobleman who had kidnapped her and more importantly because she did not want to renounce her Faith.

Surrounded by so much beauty I have definitely lost track of time, so when I leave the Sanctuary the autumn sky is slowly darkening. I accelerate on my way because I cannot miss my appointment with the mountains. Well, yes, I promised myself that I would do it, so I return to the Balcony of the Sibillini Mountains to admire the view at sunset.

The pink and violet lights from the clouds accompany the sun as it fades into the horizon, and the sounds of nature provide the soundtrack for this breathtaking spectacle. And so, as I sit and get lost in my thoughts, I realize that the day is coming to an end.

It is time to leave Santa Vittoria in Matenano, to return to my car and also, I would say, to return to the real world. I really feel sorry to leave this corner of the Middle Ages surrounded by greenery and the feeling of peace it gave me. But most of all, I am sorry to leave the Sibillini Mountains and their bluish contours of which I think I have fallen in love with.

I find myself thinking that it is really important to visit and talk about these villages and the wonders they hide because, as I believe is quite evident, there are so many stories (and pieces of History) that can be discovered, not only of the small town or region in which they are located but of Italy in general and that perhaps many of us ignore.

It’s time for me to hit the road again. I’m wondering where the roads will lead me. To another village, another story, another hidden gem of Le Marche.