Surrounded by the heights of the Apennines, Servigliano is a borgo to discover slowly, following no maps but strolling through its linear streets.
Sometimes getting lost is the only way to truly find yourself. Traveling through the heart of Le Marche, among silent hills fragrant with flowers, I took a secondary road. This is how my true journey began: an unexpected adventure through eleven hidden villages of Le Marche, where history and beauty intertwine at every corner.
In each episode, I will take you to a unique village, revealing the secrets of its ancient streets, amidst breathtaking landscapes and timeless stories.
Come with me: this is Hidden Gems - The Charming Villages of Le Marche
Today we will go to Servigliano.
Listen Hidden Gems - The Charming Villages of Le Marche: Servigliano
Chapter 1: Arriving in Servigliano
Almost by chance I arrived in Servigliano in the late afternoon by following the turns of the Provincial Road 239. It was not my intention to stop in this tiny hidden village of Le Marche region, but I arrived just in time for the sunset, captured by the beautiful landscape of this charming village, with the hills and the vineyards in all the shades of yellow, orange and red.
The charming and quiet atmosphere in Servigliano soon gave me a sense of serenity that pushed me to stop for the night in a cosy accommodation close to the city center, planning to explore this beautiful village the day after.
My first meeting with this little corner of Le Marche region was with the delicious cuisine of Servigliano, enjoying a dinner in a quiet and relaxing atmosphere.
The following day I spent the morning exploring a city center completely closed in an almost perfect square, looking for the architectural rules of the ideal city, whereby Servigliano was rebuilt in the XVIIIth century.
I looked for the remains of the ancient Servigliano in the flat territory just outside the city center. I discovered the story of Servigliano, which became Castel Clementino and then was renamed Servigliano again, before the events of the XXth century would pass through its streets.
At noon, I walked into the history of the XXth century, not only of Servigliano but of Europe as well, visiting the house of remembrance and taking a rest, immersed in the lovely atmosphere of the park of peace.
Chapter 2: A dinner experience tasting Servigliano's recipes
Servigliano is a typical Italian borgo that needs to be discovered slowly, following no maps or routes but strolling through its linear streets looking for its past, its stories and its secrets.
When the clock of the tower struck 8 pm, bells started to ring and from the windows I heard the noises of pots, bowls and cutlery taken out for the dinner: it was time also for me to take the first touch with Servigliano and its traditional cuisine.
Therefore, I chose a classic hosteria for my trip into the traditional recipes of this small town. The rustic scent of ragù that I smelt after entering into the restaurant confirmed to me that I had arrived in the right place.
I began with an appetizer plate made with slices meat of ham and salame and three different kinds of cheese served with toasted bread dressed with the local extra virgin olive oil, made with olives grown on the landscapes of Servigliano.
All my senses were definitely conquered by the vincisgrassi, a traditional fresh egg pasta made with ragù and bechamel sauce. Similar to a lasagna, vincisgrassi is an explosion of all Italian flavours in every bite. To accompany my trip into Servigliano cuisine, the waiter suggested to me a glass of Falero DOC, a strong red wine that contains the scent of vineyards grown in the Servigliano territory.
This trip into the culinary tradition of Servigliano was a discovery into the soul of this territory, where the authenticity of flavours tells a story of a land proud of its products and traditions. The best way to begin my journey into the culture and the history of this charming village.
Chapter 3: My journey inside the walls of Castel Clementino
The following day, I started the discovery of Servigliano in the early morning with still no one in the streets, enjoying the quiet calm of this village where the time seems to have stopped.
The reason why Servigliano is considered an ideal city is just in front of my eyes. The city center is closed into an almost complete square shape and its walls appear to me so perfect and linear.
My footsteps echoed on the pavement, when I crossed the monumental gateway Porta Navarra and in few metres, I entered into the urban quadrilateral of Servigliano or Castel Clementino, the named used over two centuries.
Walking through the main street reminded me of the Roman idea on how to build a city with the decumanus axis - and Corso Navarra was built just for this. In a few steps of my relaxed walking I found myself surrounded by several elegant palaces and a majestic church. Indeed I arrived in Piazza Roma.
Looking at this square it seems that time has stopped in Servigliano as if it was still living in the XVIIIth century when the town was rebuilt as an ideal city. The most beautiful palaces still show royalty with their roof terraces and painting decorations.
A melodic organ music of organ coming from the Collegiata church of Saint Mark, pushes me to come inside the main church of Servigliano city center. The peace inside the church, with the rays of light that filter through the windows, gives me a sense of calm and quiet atmosphere.
This town hidden between the hills Le Marche region has been preserved from the chaos of modernity and its city center has remained intact since the XVIIIth century, it seems still to hear the voices of aristocrats and commoners echoing through the streets and the walls of Castel Clementino.
Chapter 4: On the tracks of the ancient Servigliano
After my walk inside the walls of Castel Clementino city centre, I chose to go on the tracks of the ancient Servigliano and to see what remains of the original town, before its rebuilding as the ideal city of the XVIIIth century.
Strolling until the end of Corso Navarra, just outside the perfect linear walls, I found a building surely made before Castel Clementino city centre: it is Santa Maria del Piano, the oldest building of Servigliano. This church surprised me for its architecture so different from the other buildings of Servigliano, an elegant example of XVth century style. Also the interiors are outstanding with a splendid wooden crucifix.
My attention was captured by the building next to Santa Maria del Piano: the ex-convent of Minor Friars. Even though this building has been no longer in use as a convent since the Castel Clementino foundation, it is still surrounded by a spiritual atmosphere, with its cloister closed into a two floors structure.
This area, where it stands Santa Maria del Piano as well as the ex-convent, is what remains of the ancient Servigliano, the town built on the rest of Roman villa and left when in the XVIIIth century the Pope Clement XIV, with a project of Virginio Bracci, decided to rebuild the town in a flatter territory close to the original position.
Two names, two eras and two different histories, I discovered visiting Servigliano: the ideal city of the XVIIIth century and the oldest town with a different architecture, older than Castel Clementino, just outside the walls. This surprised me above all when I spent my day in this charming village of Le Marche Region.
Chapter 5: Into the recent past of Servigliano
At noon I left the oldest part of Servigliano and I went to find out the recent past of this hidden gem of Le Marche region. I walked in a calm atmosphere only listening to the cooing of pigeons perched in the eaves of roofs.
In a couple of minutes I arrived at the park of peace and soon I was surrounded by the nature in an immersive green area, a peaceful place as its name suggests.
However his park, now dedicated to the most important value for a community, has been theatre of tragic events: indeed in the XXth century it hosted a prison camp for Austrian soldiers in the First World War and for Allies and Jews during the Second World War.
Nothing in the park of peace remembers these events, but next to it the House of Remembrance explains with a permanent exhibition what happened in Servigliano during the first part of the XXth century.
Final: Last overlook before farewell
Before leaving Servigliano, I spent an extra time admiring the Tenna river that runs alongside this hidden gem of Le Marche region and the hills around the town, cuddled by the light breeze and the sound of birds.
The perfect walls, the majestic churches, the beautiful park surprised me during my tour in Servigliano and gave me the opportunity to lose myself in my thoughts while admiring the abilities of this village to conserve and preserve its long past. I promise myself to come back soon to this corner of Italy.
It’s time for me to hit the road again. I’m wondering where the roads will lead me. To another village, another story, another hidden gem of Le Marche.
