Hidden Gems - The Enchanting Villages of Le Marche: Torre San Patrizio

Torre San Patrizio stands on the top of a hill which is visible from the valley. “I wonder what the view will be like from up there,” I thought as I observed the delightful village from afar. To satisfy my curiosity, I decided to continue along the provincial road. I couldn’t wait to find out how far into the valley my gaze could wander. Arriving in the village, I immediately looked for a panoramic point. The day was clear, and the fresh air caressed my cheeks, reddened by the little run I had done to get there. The view was astonishing, ranging from the Sibillini Mountains to the placid expanse of the Adriatic Sea. The smell of freshly baked bread reached my nostrils. It was decided: I would have spent the whole day here.

In this ancient town, you will be lucky enough to encounter memories of the past, imprinted, like rare gems, in the artistic beauties of the town. Come with me, in the quiet atmosphere of the Marche countryside, without haste. We will spend a relaxing day, looking at the beauties of the historic center, listening to the stories that make this village so intriguing and tasting the exquisite dishes of these lands.

I immediately understood that this place contained within itself so much history and so many stories: a Tower of stories, as the name suggests. I look around and I see parts of ancient fifteenth-century walls, which at times are incorporated into the buildings. A little further on I come across one of the ancient access gates to the town, the Porta da Sole, it has a slightly pointed arch. Without thinking twice, I entered. I emerge onto Piazza Umberto I, the main square of the town. From here the view is wonderful! On the square I notice the sixteenth-century town hall and the church of SS. Salvatore.

I start walking through the winding streets of the historic center: the houses that overlook the sides are built in stone. Torre San Patrizio origins run back in the past to the Picene era, VII-VI BC, but only in the Medieval period the town took the name of Turris Sancti Patritii and since then Saint Patrick has remained to guard the city. Curious to think that it is the only Italian municipality named after the Saint. On March 17th of each year the city of Torre San Patrizio dresses in green, to celebrate the anniversary of the Patron Saint, who is also the Patron of green Ireland. For sure, I would like to return here on that date. 

After leaving Piazza Umberto, I continue walking towards the heart of the village, until I reach the little church of the Madonna delle Rose. This small building is one of the oldest and most significant sacred places in the town. It is an ideal place to regenerate the spirit. The church dates to the 15th century, it has a single central nave, but inside it is full of treasures. The most precious jewel is in a niche at the back of the church, inside which is placed a precious fresco from the 15th century. It is a masterpiece of Italian art, signed by Pierpalma da Fermo. It is called La Madonna del Latte. I sit down to contemplate the delicacy of the features, the refinement in the use of colors, the sweetness with which Holy Mary breastfeeds the Child.

I leave the little church of the Madonna delle Rose and head a little outside the historic center, to reach another church, the San Francesco’s one. This church also preserves many stories. The building dates to the 16th century and has always been a very popular destination. It is said that in times of drought or famine the common people came to pray to the ancient wooden crucifix, to ask for the grace of rain and their prayers were always answered. Now let's leave the church behind us and go and breathe the pure air of the countryside. 

My stomach is starting to act up, I think the right time has come to indulge in a tasty culinary break. In the countryside around Torre San Patrizio there are several agritourisms that bring genuine and traditional dishes to the table, using products grown directly on the farms. Ideal places for an unforgettable culinary experience, my mouth is already watering. I choose one at random, it's nice to get lost in the green countryside and enjoy a good lunch.

The typical dishes of the Marche are delicious and tasty, I suggest starting with the appetizers, the delicious olives all'ascolana and the fried cremini. Less famous than the fried olives, these are a delicious specialty of the Marche, they are presented as rectangular morsels with a steaming custard inside, which contrasts with the salty flavor of the outside. Here the first courses are prepared strictly with fresh homemade pasta, I almost want to go into the kitchen to see how they are prepared. For the second courses you are spoiled for choice, Torre San Patrizio is not far from the sea, but it is still inland; therefore, the second courses are generally meat-based, with rich vegetable side dishes.

Well, refreshed it is time to get back on the road to continue discovering what Torre San Patrizio still has to offer. I still have the whole afternoon available and there is time for a nice trip in the surrounding area. I take one of the roads that leaves the town, I head towards the sports fields. Suddenly I see a characteristic brick building, inside which there is the original stone basin. I discover that it is Fonte Duglio, an ancient fountain of Roman origin. It must have been an important meeting point for the whole town, water is life! The countryside around is beautiful, yellow and green fields rise the hill.

My gaze gets lost in the fields, the sun is starting to set and gives the landscape a romantic atmosphere. A passerby tells me that if I want to see a unique panorama and enjoy the warm rays of the setting sun, I must go towards the Venanzo hill, where the fascinating Villa Zara stands. The words of the passerby intrigue me, and I set off.

Villa Zara can be seen from afar, it stands on the top of the Venanzo hill, a few minutes by car from the center of Torre San Patrizio. As soon as I arrive, I realize that Villa Zara is surrounded by an immense park from which a spectacular panorama opens, ranging from the Sibillini Mountains to the blue expanse of the Adriatic Sea and from Monte Conero to the Gran Sasso. It is enchanting, I almost feel like moving to live in this place.

Villa Zara has a fascinating and mysterious history, towards the end of the 19th century Margaret Collier, an English writer with a very exciting story, came to live in this country house. It is in this villa that she set her book Our House on the Adriatic. I imagine her, Margaret, walking along the countless paths in the woods that open in front of the villa, among centuries-old oaks, elms, black locust trees and privets, in search of inspiration for her next story. After walking so much, there is no better place to take a nice break with the orange and red colors of the setting sun, it seems like being in a fairy tale.

I reluctantly leave Villa Zara to resume my walk, the evening lights begin to dot the landscape, and everything is surrounded by a magical atmosphere. To end our day trip to Torre San Patrizio I have at least a couple of ideas, what do you say, choose it? The fresh smell of the evening stimulates the appetite and the first idea that comes to my mind is to try other specialties in one of the various agritourism in the area, with the fire crackling behind and that typical smell of burnt wood waiting for the dishes to be roasted.

The second idea is cultural, taking advantage of a show at the municipal theater named after Margaret Collier's son, the Roberto Clemens Galletti Theater. I'm already looking forward to an exciting evening, ideal for ending this fantastic day in style. The theatre is in the historic center of the town and once the show is over, I return once again to the panoramic square of the town, with the darkness of the night the panorama resembles a large nativity scene.

It’s time for me to hit the road again. I’m wondering where the roads will lead me. To another village, another story, another hidden gem of Le Marche.